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I've found that conventional hardware store all thread (grade 2) will last=
long enough to change out one set of springs.=C2=A0 Even with lubrication =
the thread wears and gets galled.=C2=A0 I went one better and bought some 1=
/2 inch ACME thread rod and nuts from McMaster-Carr.=C2=A0 Of course, ACME =
thread nuts won't jam since that effect counts on the angle of the thread a=
nd ACME has no angle, the threads are square-cut.=C2=A0 So I drilled the nu=
t and rod at one end and I use a locking pin to keep the nut on the bottom =
in place throughout the operation.
My tool has been used for many removal/installs and is still good as new.=
=C2=A0=20
On the other hand, hardware store threaded rod is available today and will =
work for one operation and is quick and convenient in acquisition.
=20
Dave=20
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip Barnes <pebarnes71@gmail.com>
To: Rochlin Robert <rrochlin@comcast.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>; 6pack@autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Apr 10, 2023 7:32 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs
When removing or installing the front springs, I've had good luck with a le=
ngth of 1/2" threaded rod and a series of washers, plates, and nuts. Have a=
look at the tool illustrated in the Haynes or Bentley manuals. The jack me=
thod won't work because the spring needs to be under load when installed, m=
ore load that the weight of the car.
--Phil Barnes ('71 TR6 since 1977)
On Mon, Apr 10, 2023, 6:03 PM Rochlin Robert <rrochlin@comcast.net> wrote:
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m in the last stages of reassembling =
the front suspension after replacing all the bushings.=C2=A0 I originally d=
id the job about 6 years ago and can=E2=80=99t remember how I reinstalled t=
he springs, but I don=E2=80=99t recall it being particularly difficult.=C2=
=A0 This time through, I just can=E2=80=99t get the springs back in.=C2=A0 =
I got a spring compressor loaner from AutoZone and was able to install one =
spring, but when I went to remove the spring compressor through the bottom =
of the spring pan it was about 1/8 of an inch too wide to remove, so back t=
o the drawingboard...=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve looked at Bentley and Hayes manual=
s, but their method of putting the spring back is put the spring pan and ja=
ck it up into position=C2=A0 doesn=E2=80=99t come close to lining the sprin=
g pan to the lower wishbone holes. Any advice appreciated.
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Below are the bushings I removed.=C2=A0 They ab=
out 6 to 7 years old with about 20,000 miles and, as you can see, they are =
toast. The swing arm bushings were worse. I bought them on a recommendation=
from a TR guy from an outfit in the UK called Polybush.
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Best,
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Bob
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
rchive
71@gmail.com
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
rchive
sey@cs.com
------=_Part_2124215_1754830217.1681214929648
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<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size=3D"3">I've found that conventional hardware store all thre=
ad (grade 2) will last long enough to change out one set of springs. =
Even with lubrication the thread wears and gets galled. I went one be=
tter and bought some 1/2 inch ACME thread rod and nuts from McMaster-Carr.&=
nbsp; Of course, ACME thread nuts won't jam since that effect counts on the=
angle of the thread and ACME has no angle, the threads are square-cut.&nbs=
p; So I drilled the nut and rod at one end and I use a locking pin to keep =
the nut on the bottom in place throughout the operation.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3">My tool has been used for many removal/installs and i=
s still good as new. <br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3">On the other hand, hardware store threaded rod is ava=
ilable today and will work for one operation and is quick and convenient in=
acquisition.<br>
</font></div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"clear:both">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br>
</font></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><=
br>
</span></div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Philip Barnes <pebarnes71@gmail.com><br>
To: Rochlin Robert <rrochlin@comcast.net><br>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>; 6pack@autox.team.net<br>
Sent: Mon, Apr 10, 2023 7:32 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs<br>
<br>
<div id=3D"yiv3573614689">
<div>When removing or installing the front springs, I've had good luck with=
a length of 1/2" threaded rod and a series of washers, plates, and nuts. H=
ave a look at the tool illustrated in the Haynes or Bentley manuals. The ja=
ck method won't work because the spring needs to be under load when install=
ed, more load that the weight of the car.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>--Phil Barnes ('71 TR6 since 1977)</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"yiv3573614689gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv3573614689gmail_attr">On Mon, Apr 10, 2023, 6:=
03 PM Rochlin Robert <<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" ymailto=3D=
"mailto:rrochlin@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:rrochlin@com=
cast.net">rrochlin@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-l=
eft:1ex;" class=3D"yiv3573614689gmail_quote"> I=
=E2=80=99m in the last stages of reassembling the front suspension after re=
placing all the bushings. I originally did the job about 6 years ago =
and can=E2=80=99t remember how I reinstalled the springs, but I don=E2=80=
=99t recall it being particularly difficult. This time through, I jus=
t can=E2=80=99t get the springs back in. I got a spring compressor lo=
aner from AutoZone and was able to install one spring, but when I went to r=
emove the spring compressor through the bottom of the spring pan it was abo=
ut 1/8 of an inch too wide to remove, so back to the drawingboard... =
I=E2=80=99ve looked at Bentley and Hayes manuals, but their method of putti=
ng the spring back is put the spring pan and jack it up into position =
doesn=E2=80=99t come close to lining the spring pan to the lower wishbone =
holes. Any advice appreciated.<br>
Below are the bushings I removed. They ab=
out 6 to 7 years old with about 20,000 miles and, as you can see, they are =
toast. The swing arm bushings were worse. I bought them on a recommendation=
from a TR guy from an outfit in the UK called Polybush.<br>
Best,<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
** <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" ymailto=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox=
.team.net" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triump=
hs@autox.team.net</a> **<br>
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ttp://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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k" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pebarnes71@gmail.=
com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pebarnes71@gmail.com</a=
><br>
</blockquote></div>
</div>
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tox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br>
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