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Re: [6pack] Refiring my TR6

To: "Timothy Holbrook" <tjh173@yahoo.com>, "6Pack List" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Refiring my TR6
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2015 20:09:40 -0600
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: 6pack@autox.team.net
References: <178104374.330882.1423357119818.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Sorry should have said shims for the slightly "smaller" caliper bolts.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Timothy Holbrook" <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 7, 2015 6:58 PM
To: "6Pack List" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Refiring my TR6

> Hi everyone,
> After four years in storage (my eldest son is now almost three and a half
> years old, so you understand why the Triumph as gone on the backburner!), 
> it's
> time to get the my '71 TR6 back on the road.
> I'm planning to do a quick rebuild of the carbs and fuel pump (I'm sure 
> time
> and that darned ethanol-blend fuel hasn't been kind to them), as well as
> replace the rear wheel cylinders (seals appear to be shot, as brake pedal 
> goes
> to floor and there is a little puddle under each rear wheel).B  Will also 
> buy
> a new brake master cylinder in case that's shot.
>
> Couple of questions for the list:
> 1. In the past when the car has sat for a long time, I have spun the 
> engine
> with the starter for a while before firing, to get the oil circulated.B 
> To
> reduce strain on the "dry" engine when doing this, I have removed the 
> spark
> plugs and removed the rocker shaft, so that the engine can spin with very
> little resistance.B  However, my dad recommended just removing the 
> distributor
> and pulling the cam gear out, and just spinning the oil pump with a 
> drill.B
> Is that possible in a TR6?B  I'm not clear how I'm going to connect my 
> drill
> to the oil pump.B  If I remember right, the shaft that goes from the cam 
> gear
> to the oil pump is press-fit into the cam gear, so it's not like I can 
> connect
> it to my drill.B  Any thoughts?
> 2. I remember reading that there are 0.75" rear wheel cylinders available
> which give slightly better braking performance, especially when paired 
> with
> the Toyota 4-pot front calipers (which I may do in the near future).B 
> Where
> do we get these 0.75" wheel cylinders?
>
> 2. I may need to replace the clutch master cylinder.B  Should I go with 
> the
> 0.70" or 0.75" bore?B  I understand the 0.75 will give me higher pedal
> pressure but more movement of the slave, which seems a good idea 
> considering
> how close the tolerances are with clutch-throw on these cars.B  What do 
> you
> all think?B B
> 3. Anyone have any experience with these new "nitrophyl" carb floats that 
> I
> see on Moss's website?B  They are apparently a solid float instead of 
> hollow,
> thus the problem of a hole in the float is eliminated.B  Seems like a neat
> idea while the carbs are being rebuilt.
> Thanks all,
> Tim Holbrook1971 TR6 (hopefully back on the road this spring!)
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