Hugh---Let's do the easy things first. That being to take off the cap on the
Clutch Master Cylinder to check the fluid level. If it is not more than and
inch down from the top, no air should've gotten into the line to the Slave
Cylinder. (Top it off anyway, with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid). If the level was so
low as to permit air entry into the line to the SC, then bleed the line and SC
of air. (Check the repair manual if you haven't done this before.)
If the fluid level was OK, the next thing to do is to see how much play is in
the clutch pedal linkage down in the foot well. (Pedal box, in English speak)
Excess play here causes a short stroke at the SC. Outward movement of the SC
pushrod when depressing the clutch pedal should be close to 1/2 inch. This can
be checked with an assistant working the pedal, with the car off the floor for
easier measurement.
If this stroke is satisfactory, the problem could be a broken fork pin. To
check the fork pin it is necessary to remove the bellhousing. Write back if
more instructions are needed. This partial clutch disengagement is a common
occurance with our Triumphs. The fix is not complicated, but could be time
consuming.
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: Hugh Sutherland
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 12:20 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Shifting gears
Long time on the list, and this is my first post.
I have a 76 TR6 that is experiencing shifting issues. It is almost like the
clutch is not fully engaging when I push the pedal. Once the car is moving,
the shifting is fine and it shifts from 2-3, 3-4 smoothly. The problem is only
from starting from a dead stop. When I sit at a light with the clutch in, I
can feel the car moving slightly. It there a possibility the master cylinder
is low on fluid?
Thanks,
Hugh
Alexandria VA
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