Mark---Chances are good that it is the propshaft u-joint, as you suspect. The
way it sounds to you should mean that you can usually tell which one of the
'joints is the culprit. Turning the propshaft forward and back should show some
play, and there should be none. A good light on the area should help. If you're
still not convinced you've got the right ones, hit both of these with several
shots of grease and take the car around the block. Grease should lesson what
you were hearing.
Taking out this shaft is by going forward and out the bottom by the tranny
flange. Know that you may have to orient the propflange to get it to collapse
so it clears things.
If the tranny's rubber supports are soft you may have to put a jack under the
tranny to give it the extra lift for clearance. In some cases, loosening the
two 3/4" bolts gives even more clearance.
Since this is the most time consuming of all u-joints to get to, you'll want to
change both of them
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hooper
Sent: Saturday, April 3, 2010 9:06 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 prop shaft removal
I'm fairly convinced I have a bad U-joint in my TR6's driveline. It's
aggravating that there is not an obviously bad u-joint visually, but I guess
they aren't that clear until apart. It's gone from a rumble at highway until
now almost unable to go faster than 5 mph without shrieking and rumble, so
lucky just to get home. Since the rumbling and scraping noise is about 3-4
times faster than wheel speed, I guess it is in the prop shaft rather than
after the differential. Rear hubs and diff are all new inside and left right
play on shafts seems about equal.
It's been too long since I did this job. Does the prop shaft come out forward
or back? i.e. I have the rear of the car on ramps and have removed my exhaust
system, but it's still not 100% obvious which way it comes out.
I'm thinking of undoing the output flanges on the diff first so that I can
spin the diff and the prop shaft and avoid having to disassemble the interior
to get at the top flange bolts.
Am I missing some easier way to go about this?
Mark
1972 TR6
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