Hi Darcy,
The last time I had the symptoms that you describe... I had lost the thrust
washer at the rear main bearing. And the reason the clutch stopped working
properly is because the whole crankshaft had about a 1/4" of travel front to
back. I let it go too long before I discovered the root cause and ended up with
a messed up crank and block. Not cool. Hopefully not your problem, but you
should definitely check the end float before trying anything else.
Kendall
Camarillo, CA
________________________________
From: "Hunter, Darcy" <Darcy_Hunter@Instron.com>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 3:30:01 PM
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues
Aggravating day on Saturday. As an update, during the winter, I pulled my
transmission and had it rebuilt by John at Quantum Mechanics. While he was
in there, he added an OD which I was very happy about. Reinstalled and all
was very good for about 200 miles. All the issues I had about grinding
during hard shifts were gone. Suddenly, shifting started to rapidly go
downhill. Started by being difficult to shift from 3-4 and degrading to the
point where getting it into first or reverse was almost impossible. On the
way home on Friday, I had to turn off the car and start it in first or
reverse since getting it into gear was impossible.
So some investigation had me under the car and while my daughter pushed the
clutch, noted that I had about 5/8" of travel at the slave cylinder. All
seemed fine there so the obvious answer was a clutch fork pin. Ordered the
parts and pulled the transmission on Saturday. Had the unit on the bench in
2 hours 15 minutes. Very proud of myself until I investigated and found the
clutch fork pin to be OK. Not Good!! Then removed the pressure plate and
clutch disk looking for who knows what, all seemed OK. Looking for great
insight. Please help.
Darcy Hunter
'73 TR6
North Easton, MA
6pack@autox.team.net
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