Bob
You may get some other advise from some of the folks on this list, but
here is my $ 02.
Make sure the battery is disconnected, use a broom stick or
some other form of pusher from the front of the sit to the brake pedal. Make
sure it depresses the pedal at least half way. Leave it this way for a day or
two. If there is any air it should work its way back to the Master.
Dale
________________________________
From: Robert Breazeale
<robert.breazeale@gmail.com>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, April 12,
2009 9:27:10 PM
Subject: [6pack] Brake bleeding problem
Happy Easter to
everyone! I'm always reading the list, but seldomly
post. I'm in need of
some friendly advice.
I'm having problems getting the brake fluid bled on my
250. All parts are
new except the booster. New/rebuilt master from TRF, new
brake lines, new
o-rings on the PDWA piston, calipers rebuilt by (can't
remember, someone
professionally I sent them to in Oregon), new rear wheel
cylinders from
Vicky-Brit. I'm even using the Speed-Bleeders. I can get
the entire
system bled with no air bubbles coming out. I started with right
rear
first, then left rear, then front right, then front left. I am using
Dot-5 silicone. I did have a few minor leaks, I've gone back through and
made sure all connections are tight. I've even let everything sit for two
days and gone back and done the bleeding again. I can't get the system to
hold any pressure, the brake pedal has some resistence but not much.
I did
notice that when I bench bled the master it seemed odd that the larger
compartment wanted to always "siphon" back air unless I plugged the return
when releasing the piston. Could I have a defective master? Is it
something obvious I'm missing?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Kind
regards, - Bob -
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