On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 N197TR4@cs.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/27/2008 4:41:28 PM Central Standard Time,
> lang@isis.mit.edu writes:
>
>
>> The problem with using metal in that are is that the body twists
>> underloads and I've had to resort to steel rivets to hold the panel in
>> because the aluminum rivs kepts shearing off... you know, chuck the car
>> into a corner and then a boing noise coming from behind you. Not exactly
>> confidence inspiring.
>>
>
> Wow Bobsta! I have never heard any 'boings' in my 3/16" aluminum rivets.
> Maybe it is because of my roll cage design. I have two legs planted on each of
> my wheel well intrusions.
Well, I'm cheap. I used 1/8" aluminum rivets. I think the rationalle was
that I didn't want to add too much weight for the 20 ir so rivets. :-) I
think the shear rating for those pop-rivets is something like 100 pounds.
Steel fixed it. Then I put in a CAGE. No more flex! I think I could lift
the car via the cage. It is STOUT.
For my rear panel, I used .040 aluminum sheet which is pretty rigid. The
piece would have fit a lot nicer had it been pre bent to match the curve
of the rear- area. I'd def suggest something thinner like .032 or perhaps
a bit thinner and I'd def. recommend having the piece "curved" so you can
fit it without hacking up the paint.
> BTW, I had a TR250 follow me home. It has a roll bar that could be recycled
> into another TR4/TR250/TR6....if I can ever plow through the snow long enough
> to dismantle it.
VINTAGE RACER... VINTAGE RACER.
:-)
> Buried in Iowa </HTML>
rml
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Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489
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