John
There are as many opinions on canisters as there are listers. John Mitchell
had his canister fill with oil from his lifter oil line. My research
yielded: 1) canisters, while necessary for evaporative emissions control in
modern cars, they are a kluge in the TR6 because of the lack of
sophistication of
the 30-year old evap system, 2) they plug up in a few years and, thus, are
of questionable value for absorbing the vapors from your carb float chambers
or fuel tank vapors, 3) a quart of charcoal will hold about 4 days worth of
vapors then are useless if your car sits around in a hot garage, 4) can only
be refilled with special activated charcoal that is intended to absorb
hydrocarbons (no fish tank charcoal, contrary to common lore).
Take a look at Triumph Service Training Notes, p. 65 for symptom 10 on
http://www.mv.com/ipusers/last/emissions/booklet.pdf
Also look at p.54 of the above on the operation of the anti run-on system.
In my
view, this is the best diagnostic document available to owners of our
LBCs, and I would advise listers to download a copy in case this link
goes south. If you want the ARV to work, you must make certain the vent
valves to the float chambers are freelly working. Otherwise, the ARV will
not pull a vacuum on the float chambers. Oh, this is why you cant' use the
canister ARV with SUs. Then you must use a special solonoid valve that
allows air into the intake manifold when the engine ignition is turned off.
The alternative to canister removal for ZS carbs only,
is to engineer emissions systems work-arounds to address its
weaknesses. First of all, a separate PCV valve (ala GoodParts, see
http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=8)
then route the output to your intake manifold and route the carbs
directly to the canister port. If you are using a valve lifter feeder
line and/or a valve cover w/o a baffle (as I am) , an oil separator is
essential to route the oil directly back to the crankcase. Otherwise, the
canister will clog in a flash. If you don't
want to spend $139 for a GoodParts oil separator, Paul Tegler has a
simpler design using a modified aluminum electrical conduit box that
drains back through the valve cover port and doesn't require a separate
return to the crankcase. See
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/emissions/emissions_67t_filter.htm .
There are probably other cheap solutions.
As to plugging the openings of the canister, you must be careful not to
prevent air from
getting to the ZS float chambers under normal operation. In addition,
routing the fuel tank vent line to atmosphere through some kind of paper
filter (a fuel line filter, perhaps) seems warranted, which would be better
than
through a malfunctioning carbon canister..
Jerry
> Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 17:44:43 -0700 (PDT)
> From: <johnehorton@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [6pack] emissions controls
>
> Does anyone know if removing the emissions I.E. carbon canister cause aby
> problems? I intend to plug the openings.
>
> John 1976 TR6
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