Chuck,
This is the pressure I get with a new bypass spring and rebuild.
Therefore I wait until an engine is worn out to put in a new spring and
plunger to bring my pressure up for a temporary fix. You may have to go to a
softer spring. I keep extras with varying spring weights just in case.
I have also made some adjustable oil pressure relief valves in the past.
Another possible cause is a bad head gasket that is blowing combustion gas
pressure into the oil galleys. I had had this problem several times.
You aren't using a copper gasket are you?
The problem shouldn't be in your plumbing if it is the way it was on the 6.
Mike
Seems to be my time to bomb the lists for help. Need to know if I have a
problem.
When the engine was in the TR6, I had low oil pressure [would go to 30 lbs
when hot an not raise with rpms]. I did this with two different cams -- and
the builder remeasured and assured me both the cam bearings and main bears
are right on spec. I have now changed the cam and the spring and plunger in
the pressure relief valve [and added a thermostat to the oil cooler lines].
Now the car has 80lbs at start, and goes to 100 when revving [oil still
cold]. Think the oil lines are hooked up correctly. They go from the oil
filter adapter to the thermostat to the oil cooler then from the oil cooler
to the thermostat to a one way valve to a "T" fitting. One end of the "T"
goes to the oil filter adapter and then into the engine. The other end goes
to another "T". This one goes on one side to the Accusump and on the other
to the number one cylinder oil galley. The Accusump responds to the oil
pressure, so I know oil is going there. I am guessing that the problem [if
indeed this is even a problem] is related to the oil pressure relief valve.
I have not yet run the engine long enough to get the oil hot.
--
Chuck Arnold
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