Kendall---Late response to this request, having been out of town. Here
goes:
The "oval" wear isn't as bad as some I've seen, yet if you are having
clutch disengagement issues, you'll want to take care of this. You can
also add some stroke to the clutch MC by making the pushrod longer.
Carefully measure the rod, and add .150 to the original length. This
will ensure a complete evacuation of the MC and send maximum fluid down
to the SC.
Using the clevis pin end of a pushrod from the SC should also work. To
get the right length, cut the pushrod shaft rejoin to the correct
length. (I have one made, if you want to come get it)
Or, you can leave the worn end where the clevis as is if you like, and
compensate for the wear when adding to the shaft length. A bit hokey,
but it will work. Remember to include the conical washer before joining
the two halves.
Most of the time the pedal's secondary arm that drives the linkage is
also oval shape. To correct this, one can remove the pedal box, drill it
out and sleeve it back to 5/16", using a standard bushing, like
7/16"ODx5/16"ID. You'll probably have to cut off the bushing length to
fit. I don't know if the pushrod will allow boring out, due to it's
small size. There's several ways to go here.
You can also fill the pedal arm where worn and drill it back out to
original size. Take care to not "shorten" the pedal stroke when
reboring.
Dick
From:
mailkendall@sbcglobal.net(Kendall Larsen) Date: Sun, Aug 20, 2006,
10:02pm To: 6pack@autox.team.net (6pack List) Subject: Re: Yet another
clutch thread
Hello List,
An update on my clutch repair project that has been dragging on for
weeks. I inspected the clutch push rod more carefully today while in the
midst of replacing the seals in the cylinders. (Replacing the seals
because it's not hard, and wasn't all that expensive, and I can I can
check now them off the list of likely culprits.)I think I found a source
of a lot of lost travel. The clutch master cylinder push rod is not in
good shape. The hole is ovaled out as you can see in the pictures linked
to below.
So the question is, since TRF doesn't sell push rods for the master
cylinders anymore, what have you guys been doing to fix ovaled out
pushrods? (I'm assuming maybe incorrectly that the other suppliers
aren't selling this anymore either)
One solution would be buy a slave cylinder push rod, cut off the good
end and then attach it to my current push rod. Seems a bit brute force
though, any one have any good suggestions?
Kendall
San Clemente, CA
Interesting footnote... apparently "ovaled" isn't really a word.
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