Ed:
Sounds more like a broken clutch fork pin than "sticky clutch".
It might be something else that is easy to rectify, but the most common
cause of these symptoms is a broken fork pin.
1. Make sure your slave cylinder is correctly mounted on the
REAR of the mounting plate (the body of the slave cylinder passes
through the hole in the mounting plate).
2. Check that the slave push rod is connected to the middle hole
in the cross shaft lever.
3. Verify that the clevis pin holes in the slave push rod and
the master cylinder push rod are not elongated, and that the clevis pins
are in good condition (not scored or heavily worn).
4. Check that the bleed nipple on the slave is on the TOP of the
slave cylinder, then bleed the hydraulics with fresh brake fluid.
If all of this does not correct the problem, you will need to
pull the transmission and check the fork and fork pin. My bet is that
the fork pin is broken. If/when you replace the fork pin, be sure to
cross drill the fork and drive in a 3/16" roll pin or a bolt, to provide
extra support for the fork. I also recommend that you polish and chamfer
the transmission front cover to avoid the possibility of "sticky
clutch". Nothing is more annoying than to fix one problem, then to have
to pull the tranny again to fix an unrelated problem.
Cheers,
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ed Conn
Sent: August 28, 2006 8:10 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: 1976 TR-6
I'm a brand new 1976 TR-6 owner and I love the car. However, I've also
got a
sticky clutch. What I've noticed is this. When the car is not running,
the
clutch moves freely. However, when driving, it's very jerky, and at
times
difficult to shift into gear. In addition, I'm beginning to get a
"jingling"
sound as I depress or release the clutch. Is this the typical "sticky"
clutch
syndrome or do I have a throw out bearing going bad?
Ed Conn
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