Cary---I'll take a long shot at this one. Assuming the right gasket and
torque wrench accuracy, note that these head studs have more thread area
at one end. Installing them upside down can cause the nut to bottom out
prematurely, and correct mashing of the gasket might not take place.
Worth a look? Mic-ing the steel ring thickness of a previously removed
gasket to that of a new one could provide the necessary clue.
Dick
Sender: owner-6pack@autox.team.net From:
caryhenry@hotmail.com(Cary Henry) Date:
As you all know, I was having some head gasket leaking issues on my
project 76 TR6. I removed the head, cleaned up all corrosion and dirt on
the block and head with scotch brite, checked the head for warpage
(found none) and replaced the head gasket. I torqued all of the bolts to
75 lb-ft in 15 lb-ft increments. The engine was fine for a couple of
weeks, but is now seeping coolant again at the rear of the head right at
the seam between the block and the head. I believe the head must be
warped at the rear because I am not burning coolant, and there doesn't
appear to be any coolant in the oil. I will be disassembling the head
and bringing it to a local machine shop to get it magnafluxed and
checked for warpage. When I reattach the head I plan on using permatex
copper spray-a-gasket sealant on both sides of the head gasket. I would
like to recondition the head while it is disassembled. What parts should
I replace? The valves and springs look good, but should I replace the
valve guides? Also, will a standard overhead valve spring compressor be
able to remove the double springs on the TR6 head? Sorry about all of
the questions and thanks for your help!
Cary Henry
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