Mr. Rankin:
If I am not mistaken, the factory eventually revised the design
of the stub axle to use a castellated nut and split pin rather than a
1-1/8" nyloc nut. Too many people would not replace the nut after doing
work on the hub, and eventually it would loosen.
I recommend that you replace the both nuts with new nyloc nuts.
You risk breaking off the end of the stub axle or having the nut fall
off otherwise. Bad mojo.
with castellated nuts,
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of MTRsix71@aol.com
Sent: June 16, 2006 3:23 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Cc: Rankinmt@aol.com
Subject: Rear hub large stub nut 1 1/8" backing off
Super list,
I found my rear left tire a bit loose by pulling it in and out recently.
It
sounded/felt like a loose bearing or possibly a u-joint in the half
shaft
going south. I pulled the wheel and brake drum to inspect. I found the
hub
securely attached by 6x nuts to the trailing arm so that one was
eliminated, thank
goodness. I checked all 6x nuts and they were snug as well for good
measure.
But I then found I could pull in and out the stub about 1/8" which
means the
bearings were loose. I could turn by hand the large 1 1/8" nut nearly
by
hand. For some reason this nut backed off under load.
I tightened it back up to the Bentley spec of 90-110 ft/lbs. But am
still
wondering why this nut backed off. I do not recall ever messing with
this nut
before. I did snug up the inner dual nuts and locking plate on the other
side
of the bearings sometime last year on this half shaft, but never messed
with
the outer side of the stub. Luckily I only put limited miles on the car
in
this loose condition. Eventually I planned to have the rear hubs
rebuilt but not
at this time.
Any ideas to why it backed off? Any recommendations for hub rebuilding?
I
plan on finding Hardy Spicer u-joints when I do the hubs.
Thanks,
MRankin, 1971 TR6 CC61212L
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