I would go ahead and replace the other filter also. Wix has a semi clear
filter that you can see sediment from the tank. That's what I run on my
cars. Your almost there!
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steven Altomare
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 11:04 PM
To: 6pack
Subject: Re: TR6 Engine Still Stalls
Since I finally got all my tests out of the way, this weekend I had a chance
to look at my car some and try to figure out what's going on. I removed one
of my 2 fuel filters. It is one of those glass ones you can see in.
Apparently it is dirty (you can't see the dirt though) because it wasn't
letting gas through. After removing this filter 90% of my problems have
been fixed. Rather than stalling at every stop she only stalls every now
and then. The filter must have been getting worse over time because when I
checked it a few weeks ago it looked ok. I feel kind of dumb for not
removing the filter earlier but since I could see in the filter, everything
looked fine so I never thought to replace it.
I pulled the bowls off the carbs and checked the float levels. The rear
carb was set probably a little low, so we set it higher. The front carb was
set well, but had kind of a gunk in the bottom of the bowl - which of course
I cleaned out. Doing this didn't really make any difference in reference to
my issues.
I guess the next step is looking at the idle bypass valves which some people
have recommended. To be honest I have no idea how to approach these things.
I have a Mallory Unilite distributor which does not have vacuum retard, but
vacuum advance (which we don't have hooked up). Apparently the bypass
valves get connected to vacuum retard on the distributor, which I can't do
since I don't have it. Would I be better off just blocking off the valve?
If there are no hoses hooked to the valve, does it still do anything?
Thanks,
steven
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