Interesting.
Help me here. How can your alignment shop dial in rear camber unless you
have either differently notched trailing arm brackets to play with or, you
purchase and install a kit TRF sells (Goodparts made I believe) to give you
adjustable rear camber.
The manual does not seem to provide procedures for rear camber adjustment.
Thank you, Bruce Simms
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 10:07:30 -0500 (EST)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: Rear Camber
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005, Greg Perry wrote:
> Hello,
Howdy.
> What rear camber is recommended with an uprated handling spring set
> (standard road height)?
The answer depends on two things: the tires that you have and the
expected
load.
If you run bias ply tires (don't laugh, most racing slicks are
bias-ply)
you run with very little static camber... I have about .5 degrees in my
race car.
With radial tires you want more negative camber, but don't go insane. 1
degree is plenty unless your suspension is really soft (allowing for
more
body roll) and you like driving with the car cranked over to the bump
stops.
The load factor is important because with the TR6, as you increase load
on
the back of the car it squats and as the suspension compresses, the
camber
changes to negative and eventually extreme negative camber.
> It seems that modern cars with independent
> rear suspensions use a more negative camber these days. The triumph
> recommendation is optimally + 1/2 degree camber or anywhere between
-1
> and +1 degree camber. With the uprated springs there is
significantly
> less squat when accelerating and when loaded.
What you see on other cars probably does not matter with respect to the
TR6. If you're talking E30 BMW's (with semi-trailing arm rear
suspension
like the TR6) then you might see the condition of 1.5 or even 2 degrees
negative (static), and more than this amount of camber can be observed
but
is def. not EVER necessary. If you're talking about Hondas and other
Import Racers(tm) then the excess camber is probably more for looks
than
for actual handling.
The Triumph +.5 static is there to allow for the camber change when you
put a driver in the car, but that assumes the WIMPY stock rear springs.
If
you have upgraded to stiffer rear springs, then you need to dial that
+.5
out because the suspension won't normally compress enough to get the
camber to +0 where it should be under ideal conditions. So if you throw
in
stiff springs, get a "custom" alignment and have them dial in +0 or
perhaps -.5 degrees of rear camber. NO MORE.
> Thanks,
>
> Greg Perry
regards,
rml
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