Keven---A couple of possibilities here. You didn't say if the crank
froze when tightening up the very first rod bolts, or after they were
all in place.
The first that comes to mind is that this rod, in the case of just one,
is in backwards, (or you are attempting to replace the cap backwards)
Re-check the number orientation to the other rods. Also be sure the
numbers match on both cap and rod, and on the same side.
The size of the new bearings should be stamped on them. If you doubt
that they are the same as the ones you removed, re-insert one (or more)
of the old ones and tighten to spec, to see what's what.
If none of the above checks are fruitful and if it's just one rod that
siezes when tightened, it could be bent. (Tho not as likely if it came
from a running engine) There are methods to test for rod straightness.
If you do not have the means to do this, you can pull out the piston pin
or the whole piston and torque up the rod bolts. If the crank is now
free to turn, you have identified the problem.
More than likely, the answer will be simple! Let us know what you find.
Dick
Keven wrote:
Put the crank back in, new main bearings, no problems. New pistons &
rings, not problems. Put the rod bearings in, no problem. Tightened the
rod bolts to spec- big problem. Crank absolutlely will not turn. Loosen
the rod bold, crank turns with little effort. Retitghted bolts to 20
lbs, can turn the crank with a lot of effort. Tighten to 40 lbs- no way
to turn the crank. Did not have the cranck machined, old rod bearings
were +.020. Replaced 'em with +.020.
HELP!
Kevin
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