Hi,
A couple of things...
getting the flywheel bolts out if they've been loctite'd is easy. You need
to heat the bolt head a tad.
Regarding the grade of bolt and possible failure modes... the way that TR6
flywheel bolts break is that they wind up stretching because the mass of
the flywheel is levering against them. Think of the force as similar to
putting a very big lever under the lip of the flywheel and levering
fore/aft against the edge of the flywheel. This represents really big
stretching forces on the bolts.
All of the flywheel bolts that I have seen fail fail at the interface of
the shank to the threaded section of the bolt... it's the weakest point
and a "natural stress riser". When you're lucky, you can get the remnants
of the threaded section of the bolt out of the crank with a little fuss.
When you are unlucky, the threaded hole gets "boogered" and you have to
redrill... not kool.
If you can find a grade 8 bolt with the proper amount of engagement in the
flywheel attachment holes - then it might work, but given the choice I'd
use the specialty stock fastener or an NAS type bolt like the ARP for the
added comfort that the fastener is desiged for the job.
The ARP bolts are a thing of beauty, they have a nice radius under the
head to the shank and they are the proper length. They also have
"rolled threads" which are superior to just about anything. You have to
buy special washers for these bolts - the washers are "chamfered" to clear
the radius of the head to shank interface. I have a high level of
confidence in these bolts.
regards,
rml
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