Saul---Yes indeed, the O-ring is replaceable. To access it, you must
first turn the needle adjustment screw counterclockwise till it detaches
from the internally threaded needle case.
Unscrew the spring-loaded grub screw in the side of the airvalve, and
(carefully) pull the needle and its case out the bottom of the airvalve.
If it resists, squirt penetrant or lacquer thinner into the grub screw
hole.
Turn the airvalve upside down and tap the bushing that houses the O-ring
out thru the top. The keeper washer will come out with it.
After replacing the O-ring, reverse the above steps. To get the
adjustment screw into contact with the needle case threads, you'll have
to push the needle up from the bottom as you start the screw, CW.
Be sure the groove in the needle case is in line with the grub screw, to
keep the needle from turning.
Dick
Saul wrote:
This is a follow up on a thread concerning replacing the "o" ring in the
CD 175 carb's adjustable needle assembly. I have the same problem of my
front carb draining of any oil quickly while my back carb retains the
fluid. It was suggested that the "o" ring needed to be replaced. In
looking at the hayes manual (page 15-4) it states that the screw fitted
with the "o" ring is not removable. This is the part that has the hex
key recess for adjustment. Is there a trick to getting this out to
replace the "o" ring or is this truly - not removable? I splurged 75
cents for the "o" ring..
Saul W. Adelman
'76 TR6 Minosa
|