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Re: Clutch return spring

To: <triumph6970@netzero.com>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch return spring
From: "Bob" <bthomas@ripnet.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 13:40:13 -0500
----- Original Message -----
From: <triumph6970@netzero.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 8:31 PM
Subject: Clutch return spring


> Has anyone added a small spring to pull back the clutch fork?

   Like many other list members, I totally rebuilt my transmission and
clutch a few years ago (1999) and replaced the slave cylinder, cross shaft,
bushings, fork, pin, pilot bushing and Borg and Beck clutch assembly (T/O
bearing, pressure plate and friction disc).   I had the same problems with
squealing/worn out T/O bearings and worn clutch fingers every 500 to 1500
miles as described by others on the list.

   Fred McEachern at British Auto Sport supplied several clutch assemblies
and T/O bearings at no charge, but nothing changed or improved except my
speed at removing and installing the transmission.   In desperation, I made
a "squared off U shaped" bracket that I bolted to the bell housing in such a
way that it lined up with the cross shaft arm above the slave cylinder.   I
drilled a hole in the top of the bracket and installed a machine bolt
through it with a nut on either side of the bracket; then positioned the
bolt (held in place with the two jam nuts) to contact the arm at the point
the T/O bearing was just off the clutch fingers and not contacting them.   I
also installed a light spring from one of the arm holes to the bell housing
to hold the arm in place against the head of the bolt when the clutch was
fully released.

   I know this runs counter to what several people have said about how the
T/O bearing should be in constant light contact with the clutch fingers, but
I have no noise (clutch engaged or disengaged), no change in pedal feel, and
no shifting problems in 14,000 miles.

Cheers,   Bob Thomas
North Augusta, Ontario
'74.5 CF 29889U





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