I tend to think Walt is right on . Distributor problem. After
5-10 miles, the engine is warm. A worn bushing /distributor will
then start acting up, the expansion of the engine allows the slop to
become pronounced. A quick check -- when cold, take off the cap and
"rattle' the dist. shaft. should be minimal movement, cetainly no
clunking movement. Measure movement with a micrometer if possible.
Now start it, go for a 3-5 mile drive, and back in the driveway.
Repeat the rattle test. any clunky movement? Now leave the rotor
on, and try turning it back and forth. any movement (fractional
okay, rotor cap fitment slop, but is there clunky sloppy movement.
I believe the '3' sell rebuild busing kits for distributors.
Ken
: Walt:
:
: Check the distributor rotor. A few weeks ago I was frustrated by
the same
: symptoms with my '69 TR6. I checked everything you have done. It
turns out
: that the wrong rotor was installed. I can't even remember where
I'd ordered
: it from but I replaced it with another I had on the shelf and now
the car
: runs just fine. Apparently there was enough contact with the
dist. cap when
: the car was cold that the car would run ok. As it warmed up
everything got
: sloppy and running was horrible.
:
: There was a visible difference in the appearance of the rotors so
one of the
: vendors must have sent one for another TR model or even another
marque.
:
: Good luck.
:
: Walt Fogle
: Woodinville, WA
: '69 TR6
: '80 TR8 FHC
:
: >
: >I didn't get much response last time so here it goes again.
: >
: >I have a '74 TR6. It starts and idles fine. After driving about 5
miles it
: >begins to miss. By 10 miles it's spitting and popping like crazy.
Barely
: >drivable. I've swapped out points and condenser. Rechecked the
valve lash,
: >changed the fuel filter and verified carb synchronization.
: >
: >Last night when it started missing, I opened the gas cap to make
sure it
: >wasn't a tank venting issue. No change.
: >
: >Any ideas?
: >
: >
: >
: >Walt Philipson
: >74 TR6
:
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