Gary:
During a carb rebuild two years ago I found that the float valves were
operating freely but the the hole was worn and enlarged. (not speaking of
the main jets) I replaced them. Since the diaphragms are so cheap I
replaced them as a matter of course.
You can save a few bucks by only replacing the neoprene throttle shaft seal
and not the brass insert. Those little buggers are a bit pricey. Just be
careful when removing the neoprene seal as the brass bits are very easy to
mangle. My best suggestion is to replace as much as you can afford to buy
so you don't have to revisit your work. FWIW - IMHO.
Best regards,
Walt Fogle
'69 TR6, Woodinville, WA>
>Listers,
>
>I am planning to rebuild my 1973 TR6 carbs due to one of them not rich
>enough
>even at full rich setting, the idle speed varies over the course of a drive
>(especially low on warmer days) and the car is hard starting when hot. I
>have
>read the Buckeye rebuild instructions and plan to buy the TRF rebuild kits.
>
>It looks as though one doesn't typically replace the metering needle
>valves,
>is this correct? If the existing diaphragms look OK should I re-use them?
>I
>have had no problems with the float bowl needle valves, should I just soak
>them in lacquer thinner and re-use them? Is it usually sufficient to
>replace
>just the neoprene portion of the shaft seals or is it best replace the
>"Throttle Shaft Seal, complete" as shown in the TRF catalogue?
>
>I'm trying to anticipate my parts needs as best I can so I can finish the
>job
>without waiting for a second shipment of parts. The cost of parts to be
>replaced is not an issue, I just don't want to replace something that may
>be
>best left alone.
>
>
>Gary
>'73
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