Richard
Yes, I do use the later engines.
David
> David,
>
> You are referring to a later model TR6 flywheel, I hope. When I
measured my long crank flywheel, it measured 0.676" at the thinnest
part. If you look at the back side it is thinned out somewhat. I don't
think even I in my infinite stupidity would remove 1/2" from that.
> As I have never see a latter TR6 flywheel, which weighs 5 lbs more
than the early ones, I assume you are referring to the later ones
which most be thicker?
>
> Richard Seaton
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David Wingett
> Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2003 7:16 PM
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: do it youself lt flywheels
>
> Two posts in one day, gee.
> Before I started buying Alum. Flywheels I made my own. I would
used a
> lathe and turned off the face about 1/2". All the way to the ring
gear. You
> can take almost 50% of the weight out of one of these boat anchors
this way.
> Of course this will move the clutch and pressure plate. To
handle
> this make a new throw out bearing slider that has 1/2" more space
between the
> yoke pin grove and the bearing mounting face. This is a very simple
piece to
> make at any mech. shop.
> All said and done, including balancing, $50 maybe and you
have a cheep
> race flywheel. I used 2 of these in my first 4 years racing. They
worked
> great! In entry level racing every dollar counts.
> David Wingett
>
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