John,
First things first. Others may disagree, but I base this on fact...and
many engine repairs.
#1 The spec .006-.008 given is a warning zone! It's an ideal target
,especially when assembling a new engine.
#2 endplay that is .002 over spec is no cause for replacement. In fact
the bearing and its' mating surface have worn together. No matter how
smooth this surface may "feel", there will be irregularities. These
humps and valleys will rapidly wear your new thrust bearing, and
possibly destroy it!
#3 A tight engine is not necessarily going to be healthy! I would not
close the tolerance.
#4 The bearing surface on the crank was precision ground. By using a
thicker thrust bearing .005 over, it is assumed that you have had this
surface on the crank re-ground, removing I would guess ".005".
Look at the old thrust bearing that came out with the main cap and look
for, (heat generated), surface cracks. If the bearing is O.K put it back
together. Otherwise the only real fix is to remove the crank and have it
ground.
Jim Swarthout
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Removal of Thrust Washers
I have my '74 TR6 engine on an engine stand awaiting the return of the
body from the paint shop.
I checked the end float on my crank and it is .01 (10 ten thousandths).
The manuals say .006 to .008 is spec. So, I have a set of standard and
.005 over thrust washers to install. I have removed the rear bearing
cap and bearing and as the instructions have said, I have rotated the
crank in the direction of the tab to prevent the top bearing half from
rolling out. Problem is that the thrust washers won't come out. Has
anyone experienced this problem? How did you get them out. I figure I
will take something plastic and try to get them started out, but I
thought I would check with the list first. Also, has anyone gone for
tolerances under .006? Thanks for your help.
John Shewmake
'74 TR6
Chattanooga, TN
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