Darcy,
A long time ago replacing rings was common, especially before the advent of
detergent oils. Usually done to stop oil consumption it was successful a
little better than half of the time.
If you want to try it, check for a ridge at the top of the cylinder. If you
can feel a ridge with your finger nail, it should be reamed before pushing
the pistons up. Some rental centers and auto parts stores rent or loan ridge
reamers. Hone the cylinders and use cast iron rings if possible. Chrome moly
rings will take forever to seat unless the cylinders have been bored. Be
very careful that the gritty drippings from the hone don't get on the crank.
Best to rotate the crank to give the most clearance under the cylinder being
honed and cover the crank with a rag.
Be careful not to run the hone too deep or it will strike the crank. After
it's up and running again, do an oil change within the first hour or two.
If you choose to go this route you may as well replace your engine bearings
at the same time. Again, not the best method but it will often restore oil
pressure and prolong the inevitable. The purists will surely dismiss these
old practices but it may keep the old girl running a little longer.
Happy New Year,
Rick Patton
75 Delft Blue TR6
CF36050U
Brunswick, Maine
http://users.clinic.net/~rpatton
>Darcy Hunter wrote:
>
>I'm several years away financially and otherwise from pulling the engine.
>I'm looking down at that block, however, and am tempted to crawl under,
>drop the pan and push out the pistons to put on new rings. I understand
>this is not the prefered approach but I want to hear from those that have
>tried this. I would plan on putting standard size rings back in and
>probably honing with a fine hone to create slight cross hatch.
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