Michael---This could be one that you can fix yourself. Check out the
obvious clutch linkage first. That would be:
Where the clevis pin goes thru the clutch pedal arm, down in the foot
well.
Where the clevis pin connects to the pushrod arm, as it comes out of the
slave cylinder.
If the cotter pin fell out, the clevis pin could've followed.
Check the fluid level in the clutch Master Cylinder.
If they are still doing their job of moving the linkage (1/2" at the
slave cyl.) and the three-holed arm is 'sort of' moving, then you may
have sheared the fork pin bolt inside the bell housing. This will result
in a very easy-to-push clutch pedal, as there will be no resistance at
the clutch itself.
Most mechanics like to replace all internal parts when doing this job,
as the labor is intensive enough to not want to do it twice, like the
following month!
For what it's worth, TRF used my name in their new, Christmas Gift
Catalogue, as one who is tied in with their "Magic Kit." Since I
haven't convinced them to carry the better GUNST throwout bearing, their
larger, KOYO is certainly better than the replacement RHP offered as the
standard part.
I doubt that the bearing or the clutch itself is the problem for what
you are experiencing. Sudden failures are more linkage related.
If you find that you need to remove the transmission to fix the problem,
ask the mechanic if he knows that a "second pin" is a worthwhile
addition in securing the clutch shaft to the fork. I can supply a
drawing, if necessary.
Dick Taylor
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