Joe,
If you know for a fact that this engine was rebuilt...proceed as
follows:
Remove the plugs, and valve cover. Change the oil and filter. When
refilling the engine with oil, be sure to pour the oil evenly down the
areas where the push rods enter the engine block. This will ensure that
the camshaft and lifters are getting coated with oil. Pour the last
quart on the rockers and rocker shaft. Turn the engine by hand, allowing
certain rockers to be in the "valve fully closed" position. The rockers
can be moved along the shaft quite a bit, 1/2" or more, so that you can
ensure an oil film at the pivot point. Turn the engine several more
times until all of the rocker pivots have been lubed.
Using an oil can, squirt a small amount of lightweight motor oil or
automatic transmission fluid into each cylinder. Turn the engine over by
hand, (maybe 10 times); this is just to prevent a "dry" start when you
do get the engine in! The engine will smoke initially, but it's
important to ensure that the top end is lubed upon initial start-up.
Before cleaning an intake port, be sure that the valve is closed for
that particular cylinder. You do not want to contaminate the cylinder
with solid materials, (rust dust).
Once you have installed the engine, turn it over with the
starter..."plugs removed". You want to prime the oil pump, and force any
air out of the filter and oil galleries before firing the engine. Use
the starter in short spurts to prevent overheating, (5-7 seconds). When
the engine is primed and ready to fire you should notice a slight oil
pressure reading on the gauge. Be patient this can take quite a
while...have a battery charger ready.
After the engine has been primed you can safely install the plugs and
fire it up. Don't expect it to run perfect, you will probably have to do
a fair amount of tuning.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
Hi List
I just bought a "used" TR6 engine to replace my tired one. The motor
was
professionally rebuilt only a few thousand miles prior to removal from
the
car. The car was involved in an accident. The engine was stored inside
and
was covered. However the previous owner had parted out the carbs and
manifold some time ago. When I received the engine, the intake ports
were
stuffed with plastic wrap. needless to say, the intake ports have a
fine
coating of corrosion (I hate to call this rust, although it probably
is).
The engine turns fine. Is there any way to assess the condition of the
pistons/rings/cylinder walls without removing the head? If the engine
turns
smoothly do I need to worry about this? Obviously I need to clean up
the
ports. Any ideas? The exhaust manifold is still on the car and I
haven't
removed it yet
Joe Davis
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