Gary,
I repainted my silver disc wheels with the Wheels and Valve Cover Paint from
Moss Motors, Part No. 220-560, and was thrilled with the result. It went on
smoothly and looks very factory like, not at all like silver paint from the
hardware store. It is one of those products that one wants to tell other
people about. It made a big difference in the appearance of my car.
Gary
'73 CF10801U
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Radocchio <gradocchio@haynesconstruction.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 12:16 PM
Subject: Paints
> I'm having a heck of a time finding spray paint to repaint my 1974 TR6's
> steel wheels. All I seem to find that's remotely close (in cans) is that
> bright silver aluminum. I'm also looking for a "cast-iron" color to paint
> some of my other parts but have had no luck finding it. I glass-beaded my
> intake manifold (gotta thank my brother for buying that machine!) and was
> told there is a good satin clear coat I can put on it but I sure don't see
> it locally. Obviously yellowing due to heat/petroleum/exposure would not
be
> a good thing..
>
> Thanks for any help
> Gary R.
> CT TR6 guy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tr6taylor@webtv.net [mailto:tr6taylor@webtv.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 2:32 PM
> To: JRURHH@aol.com
> Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Rear Springs
>
> Jim---I have found rear spring removal to be as Irv suggests. Turning
> the rear hub (U-joint) to a spot where the axle drops to its lowest
> limit should provide enough clearance to remove the spring. (Sometimes a
> little help from a large screwdriver comes in handy.) There should be
> very little, if any, compression left in the spring at this point.
>
> I don't recall if the stock springs are longer than the ones I use. If
> so, you may have to use Plan B.
>
> Dick
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