I had a twist in the front left side of the tub when I got my TR6. It had
been accidented and repaired in a fashion truly horrible to behold. I did do
one simple DIY paint job before completely tearing the car to bits for a
resotration a couple of years later. In order to line up the bonnet I
developed a simple trick.
If your bonnet was that hard to remove and re-align, then I suggest that you
remove the grill and remove the bonnet hinges from the body rather than the
bonnet from the hinges as is usual. This allows you to place the bonnet in
the correct location afterward using little bits of cardboard or whatever to
support the front and then just tighten the hinges in place. Much easier to
align than the underside of the bonnet. It also allows one person to mount
the bonnet, rather than the usual 2 or 3 required.
Memory says that you can only insert one bolt of the two with the bonnet
down, so you have to lift it very gently afterward to avoid shifting the
mounting plates in order to put in the second bolt.
Good luck,
Mark Hooper
72 TR6
-----Original Message-----
From: Timothy Holbrook [mailto:tjh173@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 12:48 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Fwd: Re: [I Feared The Worst]
One further note, you're going to have to remove the bonnet to get the
engine out and back in for its rebuild. Sorry!
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net> wrote:
> Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 12:40:58 -0400
> From: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
> To: "Paula J. Graffam" <pjgraffam@juno.com>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [I Feared The Worst]
>
> Hi Paula. Sorry about your misfortune.
>
> One other thing to look at would be the rocker shaft. Mine was pretty
> badly
> scored. This can reduce your oil pressure.
>
> Lining up the bonnet is pretty tricky. I'm still working on mine.
>
> - Hugh
>
> "Paula J. Graffam" <pjgraffam@juno.com> wrote:
> > Listers - Since my last posting I've been informed by my mechanic
> that
> > the engine, indeed, has to come out for a crank grind or
> replacement, one
> > connecting rod replacement (i.e. lower end work).
> >
> > Since the thing is out I'm going for a total tune-up on the upper
> half as
> > well,(rings, mill down the head, etc.) For those in the know, what
> other
> > attention to detail do I need to be aware of? What would you ask
> my
> > mechanic to pay special attention to without insulting him. I have
> > decided to leave the cam alone. Of course, I'm very disappointed
> in how
> > this ended but once the engine is done I'll feel like I'm driving a
> new
> > car. In fact it is! It just came out of the body shop/paint job.
> >
> > In my limited search for a rebuilt motor I found one going for
> $2,500
> > without labor costs. So far, the estimate my mechanic is giving me
> is
> > $2,000 total, including parts. If we hold the line I'll feel a
> little
> > satisfied. Now I have to wait - something I don't do well. I
> might get
> > the car back by the end of next week. As stupid as this might
> sound, the
> > first thing I'll be looking for is if they got the bonnet lined up
> with
> > even seams along the body fenders and front valance. It took the
> body
> > shop 2 hrs. to get it right!!!
> >
> > Regards,
> > Al Graffam 74TR6 French Blue
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
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