Hi,
I sent the note below a little over a week ago and want to thank the folks
who replied. The general advice was to go through the mechanical and
hydraulics to make sure that all was in the best possible shape. I've done
this and replaced the
1. clutch master and clevis pin
2. clutch slave with long through slave from BPNW
3. pushrod and clevis pin for the slave cylinder
4. flexible hose with new stainless hose
The clevis pin for the slave cylinder pushrod is now in the middle hole, as
it should be. Shifting into first and 2nd seems to work fine now.
However, this hasn't solved all of the problems ...
I had taken the car on a 250 mile round trip on the interstate and there
hadn't been any previous problems. The occasional crunching going into 1st
and 2nd started on the way back. The other thing that started - and I
assumed would be fixed at the same time - is that downshifting into 2nd or
into 1st acts like the synchros aren't working at all. Upshifting to 2nd
doesn't seem to exhibit the problem of crunching and grinding.
While I was under the car after the trip checking the clutch slave, I
checked the transmission oil and it was *low* by about a 1qt. I'm using
50w motor oil with the transmission/J-type OD. I'm concerned that either
the synchros or one of the bushings or bearings are shot. Anybody have any
advice?
Thanks in advance!
Rob
74 TR6 daily dribbler
>I've been lucky for almost 10 years... but the dreaded "what's with the
>clutch" disease seems to be manifesting.
>
>I replaced the transmission this past summer and installed a new disk,
>pressure plate and throw out bearing. The push rod from the slave cylinder
>to the clutch release lever had to be put in the hole closest to the pivot
>point to allow the clutch to fully disengage in 1st/2nd/reverse. This has
>been fine for ~9 months but now it crunches just a little bit going into
>1st and 2nd. I'm wondering if the fork retaining pin, which was new last
>summer, is backing off or even broken.
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