Many of us have been down the clutch road once or twice (me twice in under
three weeks). Here's some of the things I got from the list (Dick Taylor)
and my/Steve Moore's (fellow listee) own experiences
- replace the t/o bearing with a high quality one, the one I installed only
a a couple thousands miles ago is now making noise. I ordered a
'heavy-duty' replacement one from The Roadster Factory and it's in the trunk
of my TR waiting for the right moment/mood.
- when you replace the clutch fork drill through both it and the shaft as to
reinforce it with a steel bolt and nut, someone sent me a url with sizes and
photos but I lost it when my Lucas C drive went bust on my PC. But am sure
someone still has it bookmaked.
- add double bushings on either side of the clutch shaft to reduce wear and
play
- check out the pedal box for play while you have the car taken apart - Dick
Taylor sent me here and it was in need of repair to take the slop out of the
clutch pedal ie., enlongated holes in the box.
- Replace the plastic hose between the master and slave cylinder with the
flexible steel one from one of the big three.
- You'll probably have to saw the shaft in two and get a new one.
Good luck
Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin O'Connor <oconnor@fuse.net>
To: 6 Pack List <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 2:28 PM
Subject: Clutch Woes
> Dear Listers:
>
> Last summer my TR6's clutch stopped functioning. When it broke, it felt
and
> sounded like a mechanical snap. I've just now gotten the tranny out to
> inspect the dammage.
>
> The clutch fork pin is indeed broken. It is broken just above the
threaded
> section, so part of the pin is still in the fork-shaft assembly.
Question:
> How best to get this out? The fork does not want to move off the shaft,
but
> it will pivot with force.
>
> Next question is about the clutch itself. The friction material is not
worn
> to the rivets yet. How thick should the friction material be (total)
before
> it is worn out? The pressure plate seems to be in good shape, but are
there
> any definite signs that one should replace it too?
>
> The T/O bearing looks good too, but I'll probably replace it. Along with
> the pilot bearing too. Any advice it greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
> Kevin D. O'Connor
> '71 TR6 Jasmine/New Tan
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