FWIW thats quite the same what I did, I was finally able to trace it to a
faulty relay. Now the TR has been standing for a week, battery connected and
all, just like you would expect it starts first time.
Take your multimeter and check for drainage.
Cheers, Gernot
>===== Original Message From Bert Van der Stee <bvdstee1@yahoo.com> =====
>Dear Listers,
>So I got the alternator out & opened it up. The diode trio looked burnt
>out, and the wiring of the rotor was also slightly damaged. That explained
>the current flow, even though nothing should be consuming energy. Best
>solution seemed to put in another alternator, what I did.
>
>Everything seemed to go fine now, since :
>* engine at 1500 rpm, little electricity consumption - between the battery
>poles I measure +- 14.2 volts. The voltage at the alternator itself is
>14.3 volts. OK here.
>* with the headlights on, this voltage goes down to about 13,9 volts. OK
>also.
>* when the engine starts, the ampere meter shows "Charge", but this becomes
>"neutral" quite fast.
>
>So I did a tour of about 10 miles with the headlights on. When I arrived
>home, I backed the car up in the driveway and by accident stalled the
>engine. Fortunately I stalled it at home, because it did not restart any
>more ! Battery flat.
>
>So now, the alternator is OK, the wiring is OK, but the battery still goes
>flat. I now suspect the battery itself again, although it tests fine (12.6
>volts, it remains charged after a week, the test of the battery cells
>showed "OK" too). I am going to try the 6 again now with another battery.
>
>Anyone else has got this problem with a battery ? Or could it be something
>else (I got a suggestion that it might be the starter that continues to use
>power ?) ?
>
>Bert
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: J. Garruba [SMTP:jgarruba@hotpop.com]
>Sent: mardi 25 juillet 2000 23:00
>To: Bert Van der Stee; 6pack@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Battery drained after a drive
>
>Bert,
>
> I have looked at several wiring diagrams, and have found descrepancies
>with all of them, however the factory diagram is the best overall. I have
>heard that a fellow lister has published a more correct version, but I
>haven't seen this one yet. Where is the symbol that you are questioning?
>
>Joe
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bert Van der Stee <bvdstee1@yahoo.com>
>To: 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net>
>Date: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 5:37 AM
>Subject: RE: Battery drained after a drive
>
>
>>Joseph,
>>
>>When the 6 fails to start, it does crank but slowly, too slow to get it
>>started.
>>My dash has an amp meter instead of volt meter, and that amp meter is
>>showing decharge at that moment. When the car is running, the meter goes
>>to charge for about 10 seconds and then returns to "neutral" whereas
>>normally it remains in the charging side of the amp meter for some time.
>> When I turn my headlights on, the meter goes to modest decharge
>>immediately.
>>
>>Measuring between neg term and battery indeed shows about 12v. I did not
>>measure the amps but will do this tomorrow. I will also check what it
>gives
>>with and without the alternator.
>>
>>The manual that I am using is the factory manual. Do you perhaps have
>>experience with others - which is the best ?
>>
>>Thanks for your reply !
>>
>>Regards,
>>Bert
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: J. Garruba [SMTP:jgarruba@hotpop.com]
>>Sent: lundi 24 juillet 2000 5:32
>>To: Bert Van der Stee; 6pack@autox.team.net
>>Subject: Re: Battery drained after a drive
>>
>>Bert,
>>
>> When the car fails to start what happens exactly? Does the car crank
>>slowly? or not at all? What does the dash volt meter show with the key in
>>the run pos? and the CRANK pos? How about when the car is running?
>>
>> When you checked for current between the neg term and the battery did you
>>set your meter to the current scale? How many miliamps did you read? If
>>you perform the test you described with the meter set for voltage, it will
>>surely show 12v potential between those two points, even with a miniscule
>>amount of current. Most modern cars normaly show less than 30 miliamps,
>>the TR6 should be less than that with few circuits drawing power
>>constantly, (maybe radio memory and electronic voltage regulator)
>>
>> One thing that comes to mind as a possible current draw that you may not
>>have considered is the diode assembly in the alternator. If a diode has
>>failed here it could cause a large draw. To check this perform your
>>current draw test with the meter set for AMPS both with all the alternator
>>wires connected and disconnected.
>>
>> As for the symbol, what manual did you see it in? Factory, Haynes,
>>Mitchel, Motor? What circuit is it in? A current draw while the car is
>>off will most likely be due to a failed component, as a direct short in a
>>wire would blow a fuse or melt a wire. A bad ground is very unlikely to
>be
>>the cause of a current draw. ( I avoid sentences like "It could never be
>>the cause of the problem" but in this case I am tempted).
>> One final note: When a multi-meter is in AMP mode do not measure voltage
>>across the battery, Remember that in this mode the meter acts like a wire
>>and presents a direct short between its terminals. It must always be
>>inserted in series with a circuit to measure current.
>>
>>Let Us know how you make out
>>
>>Best Regards,
>>Joseph Garruba
>>
>>----------
>>> From: Bert Van der Stee <bvdstee1@yahoo.com>
>>> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
>>> Subject: Battery drained after a drive
>>> Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:17 AM
>>>
>>> Hello Six-packers,
>>>
>>> I am looking for some advice on the following :
>>>
>>> The problem :
>>> After I drive the 6 for about 20 miles and stop it, I cannot get it
>fired
>>
>>> up any more afterwards because of a dead battery...
>>>
>>> What I already tried :
>>> * First things first - check the battery : it still gives correct
>>voltage,
>>> a battery tester showed an "OK" on all of the cells as well.
>>>
>>> * Afterwards, I turned all appliances "off", disconnected the negative
>>side
>>> from the battery and put the voltmeter between the minus side of the
>>> battery and the battery cable. There was current flowing ! Disconnected
>>> one by one all the fuses, but even with all 3 disconnected the current
>>flow
>>> remains. ==> something must happen between the battery and the fuses
>>> already. A bad ground ?!
>>>
>>> * A visual check on different cables did not show any bad wires or
>>> anything.
>>>
>>> * In the wiring diagram, the first appliance connected to the battery
>"+"
>>
>>> side is the starter. Therefore, I tried by removing the cable to the
>>> starter and replacing this, but no change...
>>>
>>>
>>> So - can anyone help me with an easy solution to find the bad ground, or
>>> should I try to replace one by one all the wires until solved ? Could
>the
>>
>>> cause also be in one of the parts themselves intead of the cables ?
>>>
>>> Also, in the wiring diagram in my workshop manual, I find at two places
>>the
>>> symbol of an arrow (in bold) pointing downwards. What does this mean,
>>pls
>>> ? It is definitely another symbol than the "ground" symbol used in
>there.
>>>
>>> Thanks to all for your help - great help this discussion group by the
>way
>>!
>>>
>>> Bert
>>> 72 TR6
>>>
>>>
>>> __________________________________________________
>>>
>>
>>__________________________________________________
>>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________
............Gernot von Hoegen................
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