Hi All,
I just got to reading the Digests for the past few days and a have a few
comments before I ask my own questions of this smart group of people.
First, someone a couple of days ago asked about installing a more powerful
heater blower motor in the "6". I would like to confess that I only
recently discovered the correct way to use my heater in my old '69 (after
nine years of ownership and many more years of familiarity with TR6s!) and
that the heater actually works pretty well, even with the top down! For my
car, the drill is to pull out the temperature control, open the scuttle vent
and move the airflow directing knob out, and then with the blower on "high"
I feel a strong, hot blast down around my feet! With the vent closed, the
air flow is almost non-existent, and, likewise, with the airflow knob all
the way in, very little warm air actually gets out! I sure wish that I had
discovered this earlier - I can think of many cool evenings when I froze
driving around with the top down! Oh, well! Anyway, when underway, the
pressurized air coming in from the cowl area seems more than sufficient to
fill up the car with warm air despite how mediocre the fan speed is. Before
I would attempt to modify the heater with a different blower, I would try
using the heater with different settings of the controls as well as verify
that the temperature and airflow cables actually move the heater water valve
and the air valve on the heater unit.
I would like to add my own two cents about security. I have discovered
that a few other keys besides my own ignition key will work in my ignition,
probably because the lock mechanism is well worn! Also, because my car is a
'69, it doesn't have a steering lock, so hot-wiring would be duck soup
anyway. So, a couple of years ago, I purchased a device sort of like a
"Club" except that it also has an arm that hooks around the brake pedal to
really disable the car. I realize that a professional thief could probably
steal the car in seconds if he really wanted it, but like the others, I
don't think that TR6s are all that desirable to the crook types.
Now for my questions! My son recently purchased the Dyno 2000
software, with which you can estimate power and torque of various
modifications that you can do to any type of engine. We have been playing
around with different camshaft profiles for the TR6 engine, but in order to
get a better degree of accuracy, I need to know the lift of the stock US
spec TR6 cams as well as the approximate CFM rating of the stock 175CD
carbs. The duration of all the stock cams can be gleaned from the valve
timing specs in the Bentley shop manual, but the program needs to know the
lift as measured at the valve to accurately compute the cam specs. For
comparison sake, I would love to have the data for all four stock cams, the
early and late North-American spec cams as well as the early and late PI
cams. Can anybody help me with any of this data or with the approx. airflow
of the Z-S carbs? I'll be happy to share my results with the program once I
have better data to play with.
Regards,
Rex Townsend
P.S. Hope everyone going to the TRials has a great time! Wish I could
attend!
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