I'll second this, and suggest that you rebuild the entire brake system.
Fluid is probably leaking out of your M/C and wheel cylinders too. Replace
the rotors, lines and bearings in the hub. This is not hard work to do, but
does take time. But your safety and the safety of others depends on good
brakes.
As far as pads and shoes, I've had great luck with the Carbotech greens.
Outstanding stopping power!
HTH, Kevin
----------
>From: TR6GREG@aol.com
>To: 6pack@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Brake Failure Help!!!
>Date: Thu, Apr 20, 2000, 12:26 PM
>
>John, I reread your mail, and realized that I didn't read it or remember it
>very well when I sent my response...it sounds as though your caliper has
>stuck or siezed internally and grabbed the rotor causing it to overheat. The
>brake fluid may have boiled and caused your pedal to go to the floor, but I'm
>not sure about that. You didn't mention if you had a good brake pedal after
>the brake had cooled off with the car just sitting. This would indicate that
>the caliper piston is corroded inside or stuck for some reason, which would
>say that it needs reworked or replaced. I would definitely check that rotor
>for heat damage. It is not abnormal for a rotor to have a slight amount of
>drag on the pads while you turn the wheel if the pads are not worn terribly,
>but you should be able to turn it by hand without any real effort. By slight
>amount of drag I mean that you can hear it drag, but not really feel much
>drag as you turn it by hand, if that makes any sense. I'm sure Dr. Taylor or
>some of the other folks will have some better ideas than I do... (you do have
>your Ph.d. don't you, Dick?) I hope this is of some use.
>
>Greg Donegan
>72 TR6
>Hebron, KY
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