Greetings, F,
The unit has been 'resting' in a workshop for years. I stripped it,
cleaned it up and got it working.
The timer box has three major components-a solid state relay(?), a
solenoid and a transformer (220v in 4v out).
There is a potentiometer marked 0-270 and Sealey told me that at 90-110,
it should weld 2x 0.8mm sheet.
With the pot. set at 270, the unit will just about weld that thickness
of clean, scrap sheet but the welds are small (3mm). It seems that
either the unit lacks power or that welding heat is beiong lost.
I've used a Machine Mart tip dresser which cuts the tips in a
hemispherical pattern and they're clean too. However, the electrodes are
a litle short-the 125mm one is 110 mm long and the 50mm one is 45mm
long. Could this be allowing heat back into the arms too readily?
I appreciate your help and any other ideas you may have,
Thanks,
David Hill
F Underwood wrote:
>
> David;
>
> when you say the spot welder is not quite right, just what do you mean?
> If you have scrap sheet metal that is perfectly clean- that is NO rust,
> paint, or oil, film and dirt!- will your spot welder provide good
> transfer of heat? That is the resistence of the electrodes have
> sufficient ground to create a weld through heat build up.
>
> You may have tried to spot weld your car's sheet metal and failed to
> perfectly clean all surfaces- that includes the facing surfaces at
> contact with the sheet metal and the surfaces that the
> electrodes/contacts meet. All must be clean.
>
> I have have a Miller Spot Welder that I have used with great success on
> the Ford project.
>
> Cheers,
> Frank
> Atlanta GA USA
> 59 Ford Consul Convertible MKII Lowline
> http://home.aol.com/funder770
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